Sour oranges, bitter pill, sweet pineapple

She holds out a bag in her right hand. It is full of little oranges, the ones that grow here in the Seychelles. They’re very sour with lots of pips. The bitter pill is in her left hand. She gives me back my story, folded up. She’s read it to her children. “They laughed at it,” she says. “It sounds so Enid Blytonish.......children here wouldn’t say “Oh my gosh!” and it didn’t ring true for me either.” “Well, it was presumptuous of me to write a story for that age group, when I don’t have any contact with them,” I say. “I hope you’re not upset,” she says. “No,” I say. “It’s what I needed to hear. I asked for your honest opinion.” So, now I'm home with my sour oranges and my bitter pill. My neighbour calls me over. She has a huge sweet, sweet Seychelles pineapple. The season is almost over. She cuts me a generous chunk. Yay, someone from Portugal has read my blog and likes it. He's sent me a hug.
I peel some of the little oranges, squish out the bitter pips and put the fleshy segments at the base of a bowl. I add bananas, mango (from Randolph, the fruit seller at the beach), papaya (off our own tree) and the sweet, sweet pineapple. My husband comes home. “Lucy’s kids made fun of my story,” I say. “It’s rubbish – but I needed to hear it. But a man in Portugal likes my blog." We laugh and eat the fruit salad. It’s delicious and the pineapple is so, so sweet.

A gem: Round Island, Praslin

It’s small in global terms, but ROUND ISLAND, Praslin, Seychelles sits like a huge emerald jewel in its setting of turquoise sea. You can only get there by helicopter or by boat. Once on the island, the only modes of transport are ‘a pied’ or by golf cart. A few narrow roads and paths twist and turn up and down its humpy middle.

Your own personal butler takes you to your villa by golf cart and gives you a guided tour of the island. There are only four villas, three of which are two bed-roomed. Each bedroom has its own en suite bathroom (beware of the Jacuzzi jets!) and outside shower (but very civilized, with hot water). Reading on loungers on the veranda is wonderfully soporific. There is another much larger villa, delightfully rustic, with its own swimming pool. All are set in lush green shrubbery dotted with colourful tropical flowers – an ongoing supply of blooms to decorate beds!

You can climb the wooden staircase to ‘heaven’. Climbing up and up and up between amazing sculpted granite rocks, one gets to a viewing platform. Up there, you can see Mahe and Fregate on a good day... and have a candle or moonlit dinner at night! Or you can bird watch. We saw blue pigeons, the majestic fregate birds, the beautiful long-tailed tropic birds and fairy terns.

There is a restaurant and bar down at the small beach and another (the main one) overlooking a swimming pool, round of course. The chef conjures up meals fit for royalty - so good-looking in fact, that they deserve to be appreciated as works of art before being consumed.

The snorkelling in certain areas at the base of this jewel, is excellent. You can also sail or kayak.
Round is a true gem.

Mad woman and feather pillows

Recently I did something crazy; I washed feather pillow casings. What was I thinking? My ‘Queen of Clean’ neighbour had told me that she does this, ‘for something to do’. ‘There are many things I’d rather do to fill my day,’ I thought. But we do sweat a lot here in steamy Seychelles. I stripped ours down and had a good look at them - they were not a pretty sight. I decided to do it.
Armed with a ‘quick unpick ’, I started opening one end. Feathers escaped and floated out in my freshly swept house. I moved onto the veranda. The wind was blowing, so very soon, there were lots more wafting about and sticking to my t-shirt. I worked them down into the case as best I could and finished opening one end. I managed to upend and tip most of the feathers into a plastic bag. Moving onto the grass, I turned the casing inside out and shook it vigorously to dislodge the rest. Loads blew across toward ‘Queen of Clean’s house (serve her right for putting this daft idea into my head). It looked as though I’d plucked a chicken out there. I persevered and did two more, moving around the garden to distribute ‘plucked chicken’ effect. The casings then had a good soaking, before being washed, rinsed and dried in the sun. Smelling fresh and looking a whole lot better, the feathers now had to be stuffed back inside. Yet more escaped, but finally the openings were hand-stitched closed.
Was it worth it? Yes....especially as a Seychelles sunbird has, I’m sure, used some of the feathers that were lying around to create the little overhanging porch above the entrance to her beautiful little nest. She has built this in one of the star-fruit trees in our garden and the inside too, looks white and downy. It is wonderful to see her going in head first and then turning around and sitting there with her long curved bill protruding. They only lay one egg and the female does all the incubating, (11 – 16 days) and most of the feeding of the nestling.

P.S. On Sunday the 9th of November, her very large chick had his/her solo flight...and they all lived happily ever after.

Beautiful Beau Vallon Beach - a walk

It’s 7 am, Thursday 7th August. The sand is fine and soft on this 2 km stretch of beach, the longest on Mahe. There’s a full semi-circle rainbow today and the pot of gold is down the southern end. A few people are having breakfast in the open plan dining-room of the Coral Strand Hotel. In one of their restaurants, you can enjoy excellent mouth-watering curries. I covet the big white house with its pediment and pillared shady verandas. Women are sweeping the beach, just as they do every morning. There is more litter today, because of the market last night, held every Wednesday evening on the road right next to the beach. Seychelles All Sorts for sale; kebabs, karis (curries; fish, chicken, shark), home brews, sarongs, paintings, ceramics, jewellery. At Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort there is activity at the Dive Centre. It’s a good day for a dive. There are 15 boats in the bay today. When it's rough they all disappear. This is where the ‘pot of gold’ should be. And it is; the sand sculpture. Always there is a smugly smiling lion (dreadlocks, Rastaferian?!), with a mermaid/maiden, lying submissively at his feet. This morning, her lower half is washed away by the tide. Sometimes a turtle and/or an entwined couple join them. Their creator is here today. We shake hands. Joseph wears large sharp ‘teeth’ (real, ivory, plastic?) around one arm and in one ear. He’s carving a wooden turtle. The Meridien Fisherman’s Cove hotel, with its attractive thatched bungalows, is the southernmost point. I retrace my steps, some washed away, some blurred by the incoming tide. The sand is firm at the water’s edge, the sea flat, yet small waves form and break constantly. Pairs of fairy terns swoop and glide overhead. Now I’m opposite Al Mare. This is the best spot to sip sundowners and enjoy a good meal, while watching the sun set over the sea, with Silhouette island at centre stage. It has an impressive mountainous silhouette, but is in fact named after an early settler. Randy’s table is empty but later it will be laden with local fruit; coconuts, bananas, papaya, pineapples (when in season), star, bread, jack, passion fruits. You can taste before you buy. People are bustling about at the Blue Sea Dive Centre. The ever popular sandy-floored Baobab Pizzeria will be packed at lunch and dinner, but is deserted now. Fishermen are preparing their nets to go out and catch mackerel. I cross the shallow river flowing into the sea and reach the big granite rocks at the northern end. When the tide is low, you can walk between these and see green-backed and giant herons. But today the tide is high. Back in front of Al Mare, I go for a swim. The water is a clear turquoise. I look up….. and down. I’m the only one in the sea. Lucky, lucky me!

It’s 7 am, Thursday 7th August. The sand between my toes is fine and soft as I step mid-point onto this 2 km stretch of beach, the longest on Mahe. There’s a full semi-circle rainbow today and the pot of gold is down the southern end. A few people are having breakfast in the open plan dining-room of the Coral Strand Hotel. In one of their restaurants, you can enjoy excellent mouth-watering curries. I covet the big white house with its pediment and pillared shady verandas. Women are sweeping the beach, just as they do every morning. There is more litter today, because of the market last night, held every Wednesday evening on the road right next to the beach. Seychelles All Sorts for sale; kebabs, karis (curries; fish, chicken, shark), home brews, sarongs, paintings, ceramics, jewellery. At Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort there is activity at the Dive Centre. It’s a good day for a dive. I count boats as I walk. Today there are lots, 20. When the bay is rough they all disappear. This is where I estimate the ‘pot of gold’ should be. And it is; the sand sculpture. Always there is a smugly smiling lion (dreadlocks, Rastaferian?!), with a mermaid/maiden, lying submissively at his feet. This morning, her lower half is washed away by the tide. Sometimes a turtle and/or an entwined couple join them. Their creator is here today. We shake hands. Joseph wears large sharp ‘teeth’ (real, ivory, plastic?) around one arm and in one ear. He’s carving a wooden turtle. The Meridien Fisherman’s Cove hotel, with its attractive thatched bungalows, is the southernmost point. I retrace my steps, some washed away, some blurred by the incoming tide. The sand is firm at the water’s edge, the sea flat, yet small waves form and break constantly. Pairs of fairy terns swoop and glide overhead. Now I’m opposite Al Mare. This is the best spot to sip sundowners and enjoy a good meal, while watching the sun set over the sea, with Silhouette island at centre stage. It has an impressive mountainous silhouette, but is in fact named after an early settler. Randy’s table is still empty but later it will be laden with local fruit; coconuts, bananas, papaya, pineapples (when in season), star, bread, jack, passion fruits. You can taste before you buy. People are bustling about at the Blue Sea Dive Centre too. The ever popular sandy-floored Baobab Pizzeria will be packed at lunch and dinner, but is deserted now. Fishermen are preparing their nets to go out and catch mackerel. I cross the shallow river flowing into the sea and soon reach the big granite rocks at the northern end. When the tide is low, you can walk between these and see green-backed and giant herons. But today the tide is high. Back in front of Al Mare, I go for a swim. The water is a clear turquoise. I look up….. and down. I’m the only one in the sea. Lucky, lucky me!

A roller coaster ride

Head down steep hill to main road. Halfway down, come face to face with car coming up. Jinx off up someone's driveway. He goes past. He does not say thank you. Head into town, up the mountain, down the other side, twisting, turning, hairpin bends, 2nd gear most of the way. Come face to face hurtling bus on wrong side of road. He's bypassing cordoned off area, collapsed retaining wall being repaired. Where are men with Stop Go signs? Tea break? Screech to halt. Squeeze past. Heart pounds, palms sweat. Smooth ride through town, flat, breathe easy.
Directions; after coming out of town, look out for hairdresser sign at 2nd mirror (lots of these because of many blind corners). Turn sharp left onto narrow road going up hill. Bakery on right ensures correct route (very few street names here and no house numbers). Up, up, up, steeper, more twists, sharp turns between huge boulders, road petering out...finally, pile of burnt rubble (also in directions) and there is Birgitte, waving from veranda. Her house is perched on a lumpy little hill (lots of big rocks under the grass), has lovely view of St Anne's island. We have black coffee (she hasn't been able to get milk - still a shortage) and delicious chocolatey biscuits, which fortify for drive home. Warning from Marcus: DO NOT try to avoid huge pothole on right, as tyre will go off into gully on left. Hold breath.... whew, wheels still on track. Head down hill. Squeeze into layby to let someone drive on up. He says thank you. Decide on scenic route to avoid 'rush hour traffic' in Victoria. Calm and comfy, fairly flat, two way luxury, liven up by acclerating to 40kms per hour. Still lots of twists, turns, solid white lines. Someone has stopped at one of many little shops. Traffic backs up. One by one, we daringly sweep out over white line, break free. No-one hoots. Exhilirating now, traffic thins out, driving up east coast. Stretches of beach and ruffled milky turquoise sea flash past. Twisting, turning, rising, falling, feels great going round North East Point. Into familiar territory, head down west coast toward Beau Vallon. Well known markers whizz by (50kms per hour); Copra House, Sunset Beach, Northolme, Mike's Store. Glimpses of beaches far below, then same level as my Speedy Silver Bullet. Home stretch, slow down, first gear, surge up short turn off into 'our' road. Heartbeat steady, slow, but hang on, here comes a car down the hill. Roll back down hill off to one side. Car gets past. Smile and wave, smile and wave. Stay in first for very steep bit, flattens, widens, whoopee into 2nd. All is calm. Swing wide, get good angle for going between walls. Check mirrors, good, haven't bumped either side. Orange garage doors, heart soars, home sweet home. Ride over.

Pretty scrambled eggs

Sunny Seychelles? It is not. It hasn't been for two months or so now - instead we've had lots of strong winds and rain. Poor holiday makers who have paid hard-earned cash to come here. Last year was lovely - lots of glorious sunny days and calm seas. Therefore much safer weather for lifting crates of sooty tern eggs from the islands (where they are harvested at this time of year)onto the waiting barges. In spite of rough seas and pitching barges this year, 1,000s of eggs survived intact and unscrambled and are being consumed with relish. Many people go mad for them.

It seemed like a good day to scramble the intact ones we had in the fridge. They have been staring at me every time I opened the door, for over a week now. I'd had a mental block about them, having been told that they're bright orange when cooked and taste of fish. But they were a pretty apricot and didn't taste fishy to me - not sure I could tell them apart from hen's eggs if it weren't for their colour actually. So, what is all the fuss about then?

Another taboo in my mind (small 'spoilt person' mind) was powdered milk - boarding school memories perhaps. Everyone here knows that you don't get fresh milk in the Seychelles, (except perhaps in the posh hotels?) but mostly one can get long life milk. Lately though, only a few shops have had it in stock, and at a price. So I bought and mixed up some powdered milk and found it isn't at all bad.

There was quite literally a bun fight at the supermarket on Wednesday. A new batch of baguettes was just coming out of the ovens. People stood ready near the empty bread baskets with their plastic bags and as each basket was put down, there was frantic pushing, shoving, grabbing and stuffing of bags. Flour is another product that is hard to find at the moment. Maybe this is why there seems to be a shortage of bread in some shops too. No-one seemed to want the small whole grain loaves at Rs30 each.

Then in the same supermarket, there is an enormous pumpkin on display - a whopping 63 kgs, almost big enough to carry Cinderella to the ball. But there are no mice to be seen, and it is not for sale. It is cordoned off, with a 'don't touch' sign. It was grown hydroponically here on Mahe - a Chinese project. I wonder if it will ever be eaten. It could feed a lot of hungry people.

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun. Mad dogs and Englishwomen go out in the afternoon rain. I've just seen some bedraggled tourists in their colourful holiday attire, walking along, leaning into the wind and rain. There were also some Seychellois playing volleyball on the beach. I've come home and got out a jersey (South African for cardigan), which smells of mould - it has languished in the cupboard for over a year. I am having a nice cup of Earl Grey tea - we're running out of coffee.

Out of this world; Praslin and La Digue, May 2008

We flew to Praslin from Mahe - it’s a mere 15 minute flight - but you can go by ferry. We caught a taxi to the jetty on the other side of the island, as we were leaving a bag at our hotel. But you can also take the bus - a white-knuckle drive, lots of twists, turns and steep inclines, but very cheap. With the Southeaster blowing, the half hour ferry crossing to La Digue was a little rough, but no-one needed the sick bags..
Everyone knows everyone and everyone’s business too on this small island, so it was no trouble finding our contact man, amongst all the others vying for our custom. He found us a boatman and insisted on buying samoosas, sandwiches, quiche and banana fritters to fortify us all for the outing. There were lots of boats already at the small rocky Ile de Coco when we got there. It seemed all had the same idea; to get to the snorkelling spots early to avoid the crowds. Still, there was room for all of us to revel in the kaleidoscope of fish in the crystal clear water. The fish seemed totally unconcerned about our lumbering bodies. It was very shallow in places and so we were able to see their exquisite colours and intricate patterns at very close range. The palette surgeon fish is so handsome, with its bold body design in electric blue and black and a bright yellow tail. We also saw a turtle near some big rocks.
Then off we all went to Felicite, which is different again and a much bigger island. A resort is being built on it, so one wonders how long boat trips there will be allowed. Amongst so much else, we saw a big turtle, two devil fire-fish, a small black-tip reef shark and a beautiful well-camouflaged box fish.

Then it was back to La Digue, having had a look at the northern coastline en route.
Very few cars are allowed on the island and so the most common mode of transport is bikes. Those who wobble a bit on them are advised not to carry baggage in their baskets….
Off we all went to Sources D’Argent, which is in the running for one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, because of its amazing granitic rock formations. There is a beautiful walk through the rocks and forest just off the beach. The rocks break the beach up into little bays. So, in spite of all the people, (those who’d been snorkelling at Ile de Coco and Felicite were now there too and others!), we were easily able to find a spot to do what everyone else was doing; smothering on suntan cream, roasting and then cooling off in the very shallow lagoon.
Later, we took a leisurely bike ride round the very picturesque northern end of the island – but had to pedal hard and even push up some of the hills. The chain on Dudley’s bike broke though, so it was a bit of a limp back; freewheeling down hill, pushing uphill, Sal pulling him along on flat bits. (Those who wobble on bikes cannot be trusted with this, so can only offer moral support!) No refund from ‘hire company’….!
We took the last ferry back to Praslin in the evening and it was nice to drive in our hired car back to our hotel, rather than catch the bus. The next morning, we took the scenic route to Anse Lazio (called Chevalier Bay on the map), which is another stunning beach. We had an ‘out of this world’ snorkel around Chevalier Point on the right-hand side, which included a close encounter with a turtle. He came up for air between the three of us and was within touching distance. The swimming off the beach there is lovely too – much deeper than Sources D’Argent.
We had a late lunch at a little beach-side restaurant in Cote D’Or rather than at the very expensive two restaurants at Anse Lazio (which also only price their menus in euros). We drove around a bit more in the afternoon, finding some out of the way, off the beaten track villages and beaches before heading for the airport to catch our 4.45pm flight back to Mahe. Home sweet home at about 6 pm – in time for the sunset over Silhouette.